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History of the Irish Aran Sweater
Known for their warmth, charm and water-resistance, the Irish Aran Sweater is loved by people across the globe. They have been donned by the likes of fashion icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Steve McQueen, Ralph Lauren and even the Kennedys. A staple of modern fashion, it’s safe to say that they are the most significant article of native Irish clothing today. But to truly appreciate these Irish Cardigans and sweaters and all Irish Gifts it’s essential that you recognize the rich cultural history of the Irish and Irish Aran clothing. To do that you must take a step back in time to the harsh, picturesque Aran Islands.
The Aran Islands lay at the mouth of the Galway bay, six miles from the mainland shore. Historically isolated due to the rough waters surrounding the islands, the inhabitants sustained themselves for centuries using self-sufficient farming and fishing techniques. Because of the rocky terrain that was stripped of arable earth by strong winds, much of the soil used for farming on the island was created by hand mixing seaweed, fishmeal, sand and manure. The austere island lifestyle lasted well into the 20th century. Since the climate on the islands is often frigid and damp, warm clothing has always been essential.
Hand-knitting did not spread to Ireland until the 17th century, but it soon came to be a communal activity on the island. Knitting was a way to bond with neighbors, a way to impress a suitor, and a cultural tradition to be passed on to future generations. Since patterns were never written down but highly sought after, new patterns spread swiftly through the island villages. It’s even rumored that women in church would pay more attention to stocking patterns than to prayer.
Before the invention of their Irish sweater the residents typically wore the Irish Clothing that had been customary for centuries. Irish Aran clothing tended to be shawls, thick wool trousers and waistcoats. Unlike in Scotland and England, sweaters didn’t become fashionable for some time. This likely has to do with the isolation of the islands. But by 1907 an Irish writer, John Millington Synge, noticed that men on the island were finally beginning to wear English style sweaters. Out of the combination of a close community of women who loved knitting patterns and the growing popularity of sweaters on the island, a new Irish sweater was born.
The Irish Aran Sweater is different from normal sweaters in a few distinct ways. Aran sweaters are made from unsecured bainin, or thick cream-colored wool. Since the wool is left unscoured, the lanolin, or natural oil that protects sheep from the rain, is left in the material. This gives the sweater an element of water-resistance that made it perfect for the local fishermen. The other difference is the distinct knitting patterns that all mean something; from the honeycomb pattern, a symbol of hard-work, to the diamond stitch, an emblem of wealth.
Knitting the sweater was a labor of love and it could take months to make a single one. If a woman was in love she would knit a sweater for her sweetheart. If the man accepted it signified that he too was in love. The Irish Aran sweater was also knit for young boys to wear to their first communion. Eventually, they were sold commercially. The first Aran sweater was sold by Carraig Donn in Dublin in 1935, and by 1940 a book of Aran sweater knitting patterns was published. Demand grew fast, and the sweaters needles began to run out as more women worked. Some would use bike spokes, and others would use goose feathers.
The Irish sweater like many Irish Gifts did not gain international popularity until sometime in the mid-20th century. Curiously, their popularity is linked to two distinctly different factors; yachtsmen and folk-singers. The first is easy to explain. Yachters preferred Aran sweaters because they were warm and attractive. Due to their new found reputation in the community it was not long before they were featured in yachting magazine fashion spreads. This introduced the sweaters to a mass audience outside of Ireland.
The next push occurred by chance when The Clancy Brothers, a soon-to-be influential Irish folk group, moved to Greenwich Village in the 1950s. Upon hearing about the brutal ice storms of New York, their mother sent them matching Aran sweaters to keep them warm. Their manager wisely insisted they wear them on “The Ed Sullivan Show.” According to Liam Clancy, the sales of Aran sweaters rose 700%. Celebrities and models were wearing them in ritzy clubs and Hollywood films, and soon they were featured in Vogue Magazine. By the 1960’s the demand had grown so much that island’s knitters had a difficult time keeping up with their orders, and the rest is history. Today Irish Aran Clothing is still made across homes in Ireland, many of the original companies like Carraig Donn still Aran Sweaters as they continue to grow in popularity.